The Lycian Way & Demre — Context
The Lycian Way — Turkey’s first long-distance hiking trail and one of the world’s ten best according to the Sunday Times — passes directly through the Demre region. This is not a detour or a side-route: the path walks you through the very heart of the ancient Lycian world, past rock-cut tombs, sunken cities, Byzantine castles, and a saint’s church, before climbing over a mountain where shepherds still tend goats on ruins that have stood for two millennia. These seventy-odd kilometres between Kaş and Finike are, for many thru-hikers, the highlight of the entire 540-kilometre trail.
The Lycian Way (Likya Yolu) was created by British expat Kate Clow in 1999 — a 540-kilometre waymarked footpath following ancient trade routes, Roman roads, and shepherd paths along Turkey’s southwestern Mediterranean coast from Fethiye to Antalya. It was Turkey’s first long-distance trail and has become one of the most celebrated trekking routes in the world, weaving together extraordinary coastal scenery with a density of ancient ruins found on no other trail of its kind.
The Demre region sits roughly at the trail’s midpoint, and it is where the Lycian Way reaches its richest concentration of historical sites. Within these stages you pass through (or near) five ancient Lycian/Roman cities — Aperlai, Apollonia, Simena, Teimiussa, and Myra — along with the Church of St. Nicholas, the Andriake harbour complex, and the sunken city of Kekova visible beneath the water as you walk the coastal path above it. No other section of the trail packs this much history into this few kilometres.
The trail through Demre also contains its most dramatic contrast. The coastal sections — Kaş to Kekova, Üçağız to Simena — are relatively gentle, passing through fishing villages with pensions, restaurants, and cold beer at the end of the day. The Alacadağ mountain crossing from Demre to Finike is the opposite: a 35-kilometre wilderness traverse climbing to 1,800 metres with no accommodation, limited water, and navigation that challenges even experienced hikers. Understanding which sections suit your ability and ambition is the purpose of this guide.
Route Overview
The Demre region of the Lycian Way can be divided into four stages. Each has a different character, difficulty, and infrastructure profile. You can walk them as a continuous thru-hike, select individual stages as day walks, or combine walking with other transport (dolmuş, boat, car) to create a customised itinerary.
| Stage | Route | Distance | Days | Difficulty | Camping Needed? |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | Kaş → Üçağız (via Aperlai, Apollonia) | ~25 km | 1–2 | Moderate | Optional (pensions in Üçağız) |
| 2 | Kekova Coast (Üçağız → Kaleköy → coast) | ~8–12 km | ½–1 | Easy–Moderate | No (pensions available) |
| 3 | Üçağız / Kekova → Demre (Myra) | ~15–20 km | 1 | Moderate | No (hotels/pensions in Demre) |
| 4 | Demre → Finike (Alacadağ crossing) | ~35 km | 2 | Hard | YES — mandatory |
Stage 1 — Kaş to Üçağız
The trail leaves Kaş heading east, climbing away from the town and quickly entering a landscape of pine forest, scrubby maquis, and dramatic coastal views. The path follows ancient routes that connected the Lycian cities of the coast, rising and falling over a series of headlands with hidden coves below. This is a moderately challenging section — not technically difficult but involving constant small ascents and descents over rocky, uneven terrain. Good footwear is essential; the path surface is loose stone and exposed root throughout.
The first significant ancient site is Aperlai, reached after approximately 15 kilometres. This small Lycian city, never excavated, sits at a remote cove where harbour walls are partially submerged — an eerie echo of Kekova’s sunken city, but with no tour boats and usually no other visitors. Sarcophagi and rock-cut tombs stand beside the path. A short distance further, the ruins of Apollonia occupy another headland. Both cities were members of the Lycian League, both are entirely unrestored, and both give the thru-hiker a sense of discovery that Myra’s managed site cannot.
The stage ends at Üçağız village — a dramatic arrival, descending from the hills to find the harbour spread before you, with Kekova Island and Kaleköy visible across the bay. Üçağız has pensions, restaurants, and a grocery shop. Most hikers arrive in the afternoon and reward themselves with a waterfront dinner overlooking Lycian sarcophagi.
Distance: ~25 km · Time: 8–10 hours · Elevation: constant ups/downs, max ~500 m
Water: carry 3L minimum — limited refill points between Kaş and Üçağız
Waymarks: generally good, some confusing sections near Apollonia
Sleep: Üçağız pensions (book ahead in summer) or wild camp at Aperlai cove
Stage 2 — The Kekova Coast
This is the shortest and most accessible stage — and for many walkers, the most memorable. The coastal path from Üçağız to Kaleköy (Simena) is just 4 kilometres, takes about an hour, and is waymarked with Lycian Way red-and-white blazes throughout. The trail follows the shoreline of Kekova Bay, passing rock-cut tombs, sarcophagi (some half-submerged at the waterline), olive groves, and viewpoints where the sunken city ruins are visible beneath the clear water below.
At Kaleköy, the path climbs steeply to the Byzantine castle at the summit of the village — a short but intense ascent on stone steps. The view from the top is one of the great panoramas of the Turkish coast: Kekova Island stretching east, the sunken city trace visible as a pale shadow beneath the water, the open Mediterranean beyond, and the Taurus Mountains rising behind you. This is a viewpoint that rivals any drone photograph and requires nothing but your own feet to reach.
Beyond Kaleköy, the Lycian Way continues along the coast, offering more remote walking along uninhabited shoreline with occasional ancient ruins. This section is less visited and less clearly marked — navigation can require attention. The trail eventually turns inland and north, heading toward Demre.
“The Üçağız-to-Kaleköy walk is the one section of the Lycian Way I’d recommend to absolutely everyone — even people who would never call themselves hikers. It’s flat, short, gorgeous, and at the end there’s a castle, a view, and a cold drink. Do it in the early morning (leave Üçağız by 07:30) and you’ll arrive at the castle before the first tour boats bring their passengers. That hour alone on Simena’s summit, with the whole bay spread below you, is worth the trip to Demre.”
Stage 3 — Kekova Coast to Demre / Myra
From the Kekova coast, the trail heads inland and north toward Demre, passing through agricultural land, greenhouse-lined roads, and patches of forest before arriving at the outskirts of the modern town. This is a transition stage — less dramatically scenic than the coastal sections, more practical. The path takes you past Andriake (Myra’s ancient harbour) and within reach of the Lycian Civilizations Museum before arriving at Demre centre and the ruins of Myra Ancient City.
Demre serves as a major resupply point for thru-hikers. ATMs, pharmacies, supermarkets, a Friday market, and a range of accommodation from pensions to the Andriake campsite are all available. This is your last chance for full services before the Alacadağ crossing to Finike — stock up on food, water, and anything else you need before heading into the mountains.
Demre is the last town with full services before Finike. Between the two: no shops, no ATMs, no accommodation, limited water. Buy food for 2 days, carry at least 3 litres of water per person, and ensure your camping gear is complete. The Alacadağ crossing is the most demanding section of the entire Lycian Way.
Stage 4 — The Alacadağ Crossing
This is the big one. The Alacadağ crossing between Demre and Finike is widely regarded as the most challenging section of the entire Lycian Way. The numbers tell the story: approximately 35 kilometres, a climb from near sea level to roughly 1,800 metres and back down again, zero accommodation, very limited water sources, and waymarking that can be difficult to follow in sections where forestry operations have disturbed the path. Most thru-hikers take two days, camping overnight at Kırkmerdiven or near the Alakilise ruins.
The ascent from Demre is steep and sustained, climbing through forest into increasingly exposed mountain terrain. The landscape transforms as you gain altitude: greenhouse-covered valley gives way to pine forest, then to rocky alpine scrub. At the highest point, on a clear day, you can see the sun reflected on Demre’s greenhouses far below — a visual reminder of how far you have climbed. The ruins of Alakilise (a Byzantine church complex) provide a popular wild-camping spot roughly at the midpoint of the crossing. Beyond here, the descent toward Finike is equally demanding — steep, rocky, and long.
Water is the critical logistical challenge. There are ancient cisterns along the route, but their water level varies by season and quality is unreliable. Shepherds at Yatıkardıç Yayla (a high plateau) sometimes sell water and basic provisions, but their presence cannot be guaranteed. The guidebook (Kate Clow, 2022 edition) and experienced thru-hikers unanimously agree: carry a minimum of 3 litres per person, more in summer. A water purifier is strongly recommended.
The honest alternative: skip the Alacadağ crossing and take a dolmuş from Demre to Finike (25 km, 25 minutes, inexpensive). This is not failure — it is pragmatism. The section between Finike and Karaöz that follows (a 30 km road walk along a flat beach) is also commonly skipped. Many experienced Lycian Way hikers regard the Kaş–Kekova–Demre sections as the highlights and the Alacadağ–Finike sections as optional endurance tests. Know your limits and plan accordingly.
Do not attempt this section casually. It requires: a tent and sleeping bag, 2 days’ food supply, 3+ litres of water, navigation confidence (waymarks are unreliable in places), and reasonable mountain fitness. In summer the heat is brutal on the exposed upper sections. In winter there may be snow above 1,500 m. The alternative is to take a dolmuş from Demre to Finike along the D400 and rejoin the trail — many thru-hikers do this without shame. The guidebook itself suggests it for the Finike–Karaöz beach section that follows.
Day Walks for Non-Hikers
You do not need to be a thru-hiker to experience the Lycian Way near Demre. Several sections work perfectly as standalone day walks — short enough to complete in a morning or afternoon, accessible without camping gear, and rewarding enough to be the highlight of a Demre visit.
Walk 1 — Üçağız to Kaleköy (The Classic)
Distance: 4 km each way · Time: 1 hour each way · Difficulty: Easy
Start: Üçağız village harbour · End: Kaleköy (Simena Castle summit)
What you see: Kekova Bay coastline, rock-cut tombs, waterside sarcophagi, olive groves, Simena Castle panorama
How to get there: Drive to Üçağız (35 km from Demre, 40 min). Walk to Kaleköy, climb the castle, walk back. Or take a boat one way and walk the other.
Best time: Early morning (arrive Üçağız by 07:30) for empty castle views
Walk 2 — Üçağız to Aperlai (The Explorer)
Distance: 7 km one way · Time: 2.5–3 hours one way · Difficulty: Moderate
Start: Üçağız · End: Aperlai ancient city (return same route or arrange boat pickup)
What you see: Remote Lycian coastline, Aperlai’s unexcavated ruins, submerged harbour walls, rock tombs, secluded coves
Note: No facilities at Aperlai — carry water and food. Return the same way or pre-arrange a boat from Üçağız to collect you at Aperlai’s cove.
Best time: Spring (wildflowers) or autumn (golden light)
Walk 3 — Andriake to Sura (The Quiet One)
Distance: ~5 km one way · Time: 1.5 hours one way · Difficulty: Easy–Moderate
Start: Andriake / Çayağzı · End: Sura (Apollo temple ruins)
What you see: Coastal path, wetlands, birdlife, then inland to the small ruins of Sura with its oracle of Apollo (fish oracle — unique in the ancient world)
Note: Sura is a minor, unexcavated site — atmospheric but small. The walk itself through the coastal landscape is the main draw.
Best time: Any season; early morning for birdwatching along the wetlands
Walk 4 — St. Nicholas Ways (Mountain Churches)
Distance: Various (6–15 km loops) · Time: 3–6 hours · Difficulty: Moderate–Hard
Start: Various trailheads in the Alacadağ foothills above Demre
What you see: Byzantine mountain churches, remote shepherd pastures, Taurus Mountain views, wildflowers, forest
Note: These 6 routes, added in the 2022 guidebook edition, link Byzantine-era churches in the mountains above Demre to the main Lycian Way. Less well-marked and less visited than the main trail. Only for hikers comfortable with route-finding.
St. Nicholas Ways — The Mountain Extension
The 2022 edition of Kate Clow’s guidebook introduced the St. Nicholas Ways — a network of six routes in the Alacadağ foothills above Demre, linking Byzantine-era churches that were once part of the ecclesiastical network connected to St. Nicholas’s bishopric. These trails are shorter and more remote than the main Lycian Way, passing through pine and cedar forest with views of the Demre valley and the Mediterranean. The churches themselves are small, unrestored ruins — atmospheric stones in mountain clearings rather than grand monuments. This extension is for experienced walkers comfortable with limited waymarking and mountain terrain. It is not widely hiked and you are unlikely to encounter other walkers.
Practical Information for Hikers
Water
Water is the defining logistical challenge of the Demre section. The coastal stages (Kaş–Üçağız, Kekova coast) have refill opportunities at villages. The Alacadağ crossing has almost none — cisterns exist but are seasonal and quality-unreliable. Carry at least 3 litres per person for the mountain crossing. A water purifier (filter or chemical treatment) is strongly recommended for cistern water. In villages, mosque fountains (çeşme) provide clean drinking water unless marked “içilmez” (not drinkable).
Accommodation & Camping
On the coastal stages, pensions in Üçağız and Kaleköy eliminate the need for camping gear. In Demre, full hotel and pension accommodation is available. The Andriake Camping & Glamping site is a natural Lycian Way stopover — directly on the trail with showers, electricity, and meals. For the Alacadağ crossing, camping is mandatory — there is no accommodation between Demre and Finike. Wild camping is permitted along the trail (Turkish law allows camping in non-private, non-protected areas). Popular spots: Aperlai cove, Kırkmerdiven clearing, Alakilise church ruins.
Waymarking & Navigation
The Lycian Way is marked with red-and-white painted blazes on rocks, trees, and posts — the international standard for long-distance trails. In the Demre region, marking quality varies: excellent on the Üçağız–Kaleköy path, good on the Kaş–Üçağız coastal sections, and unreliable on parts of the Alacadağ crossing where forestry operations have disturbed the route. Download the GPS track from lycianway.org before you go. Kate Clow’s guidebook (2022 edition) includes detailed maps and descriptions. If you lose the waymarks, the guidebook’s advice stands: return to the last confirmed blaze and try again.
When to Go
March to May and October to November are the best hiking months. Spring brings wildflowers, comfortable temperatures, and flowing water sources. Autumn offers golden light, warm sea (for post-hike swims), and thinning crowds. Summer (June–September) is too hot for comfortable mountain hiking — the Alacadağ crossing in August is genuinely dangerous without extreme heat precautions. Winter is mild on the coast but the mountains above 1,500 metres can see snow and fog. See our detailed climate data for month-by-month planning.
Gear Essentials
For day walks: sturdy hiking shoes (not sandals — the terrain is rocky throughout), 2 litres of water, sun hat, sunscreen, phone with downloaded offline map. For multi-day/Alacadağ: add tent, sleeping bag, cooking gear, 3+ litres water capacity, water purifier, headlamp, first-aid kit, whistle, and the guidebook or GPS data. Trekking poles are highly recommended for the Alacadağ descent — the sustained downhill to Finike is hard on the knees.
“If you’re doing the Üçağız–Kaleköy day walk and you want to make it special, leave your car at Üçağız harbour, walk the coastal path to Kaleköy in the morning, climb the castle, have lunch at the waterfront, then take a small boat back to Üçağız in the afternoon (boat captains at the Kaleköy dock offer this — 100–150 TL per person). Walking one direction and boating the other gives you both the trail experience and the sea perspective in a single day. It’s my favourite half-day activity in the entire Demre region.”